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David Yurman Jewelry: Evolution of a Jewelry Designer.
The Orlando Sentinel has an interesting feature on David Yurman today.
David Yurman jewelry is like your favorite blue jeans -- only much more expensive. The jewelry is "comfortable," says Yurman, 63, who recently visited his new boutique, which rubs shoulders with Cartier and Tiffany in Orlando's Mall at Millenia.
The jewelry is also versatile, he says. "You can wear it anywhere, day to evening." Just like blue jeans.
It wasn't always that way with jewelry. Before the 1980s, when Yurman's now-iconic cable bracelets became the most coveted, and copied, arm candy in the United States, there were two kinds of jewelry: Costume for everyday wear, and fine jewelry for special occasions.
The relaxed elegance of Yurman's designs bridged the divide. The jewelry is classic but with a modern twist that gives it go-anywhere elan.
Fashioned from gold and silver, many pieces also feature coral and turquoise, a sparkling array of gemstones and Yurman's current favorite, South Seas pearls. Signature motifs include a squared "cushion" shape, a hook-and-eye closure and the widely recognized twisting "cable" pattern.
The designs are "a combination of art, fine jewelry and fashion," says Yurman, who wears several of his creations: A ring, a bracelet and a square-faced watch.
Dressed all in black, his thick white hair swept straight back, his chin fashionably stubbled, he looks every inch the artist from Tribeca, the New York neighborhood where he and his artist wife, Sylvia, live and work.
Before designing jewelry, Yurman was a sculptor, hanging out with prominent Beat artists of the 1960s; writer Norman Mailer, painter Franz Kline, sculptor Ron Boise.
"I did these funny little silver angels," he says.
It was one of those angels, fashioned into a belt buckle, that sparked his career as a jewelry designer.
The buckle was a gift to Sybil, his girlfriend at the time. She wore it to an art opening, where it caught the eye of the gallery owner. He asked if it was for sale. Yurman said no, but Sybil said yes -- and within weeks they found themselves in the jewelry business.
Ever since, they've had good-luck angels perched on their shoulders. Their collections are in more than 450 stores around the world, and David Yurman is one of the best-known luxury brands on the planet.
Gwyneth Paltrow and Barbra Streisand wear the jewelry; Steven Spielberg and Kevin Spacey the watches; hip-hop moguls Jay-Z and Damon Dash the men's designs. Their ad campaigns have featured models Amber Valetta and Kate Moss, and the company's newest "face" is Naomi Watts -- who recently flashed Yurman earrings of rose quartz and diamonds at the Oscars.
Orlando real estate agent Virginia Morales, 49, collects Yurman bracelets. "I wear three, four at a time," she says. "My husband always knows what to give me for my birthday, anything David Yurman."
Since founding their company in 1980, the Yurmans have worked as a team.
"I have the vision; I design the collections," explains Yurman. "My wife does the styling and merchandising."
Their son, Evan, is part of their ever-expanding creative team. And let's not forget the lawyers.
The couple's designs, which range from about $300 for a simple bracelet to more than $7,000 for a multistrand couture necklace, are among the most copied in the world. Yurman is not flattered by imitators and spends $1 million a year protecting his brand.
"Copying is stealing," he says. People who wear copies are deceptive. "And that's not cool."
Worse, he says, they are supporting counterfeiters who may pay no taxes, have ties to illegal operations or use child labor.
As his company grows, Yurman finds himself more in the role of executive than artist.
"It's less like playing an instrument, more like being the leader of the band," he says. "I'm about ready to do more art work."
But that is not likely to happen anytime soon. First, he plans to introduce a line of Yurman eyewear and a Yurman fragrance, followed by Yurman handbags and luggage.
No wonder he believes in angels.
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